A. BURMESE ENCHANTMENT. 93
monkeys and tuTtle, and many queer water birds ; and once we passed a big snake in mid-stream. Jungle fowl came down in numbers to the river, and we heard barking deer in the forest. The natives carry on extensive fishing operations with traps and circular nets. They go about this work quite naked, except for the usual pair of tatooed shorts, which embroider their persons from waist to knee with dragons. We stopped every morning for breakfast in some wooded spot, and had a swim, or gathered orchid roots from the trees while the cooking was going on. The days were uncomfortably hot under the low matting roof of the boat, but there followed long quiet afternoons, with rich sunsets. Jungle and hill and cloud-land were reflected in the placid water. At dusk we stopped at some village, putting up either in the Thugyi's1 house, or in the Zayat, ot public rest-house. Every Burman village has a Zayat. It is usually an open teak shed, raised from the ground on piles. It is always kept clean for travellers, and the Thugyi, or headman, spreads rugs and matting round the walls. In the evening he and his wife, and a few lugyis (big men) come along and chat in their broad patois. No one need go hungry or roof less in this Buddhist land. Any one may use the Zayat. A meal is always to be had for the asking. In fact, the whole priesthood begs its food daily. It is not
1 Headman.1 Headman.