36 A. BURMESE ENCHANTMENT.
In country places where watches are still uncommon, time is calculated by the regular occurrences of the day. The going forth of the monks to beg is called Soon twet, a word used to express about 6 a.m. : and Soon winjain, the time of their return to the monastery, is about 10 o'clock. 9 a.m. is expressed by Htoon-jootathe hour when it begins to get hot, and ploughing ceases. Dusk is Woot et jain, the hour of evening devotion.
The Myittha, or4 Pleasant river,' flows past Gangaw, and 200 miles further on joins the Chindwin river at Kalewa, whence steamers run to Pakokku on the Irrawaddy. So we set off down the Myittha in one of the dug-out log boats which ply up and down. They are meant to be heavily weighted to the water's edge with a full cargo of grain. So with only my party of Ij six Burmese plus three boatmen and a little baggage, the dug-out sat like a cork on the water with at least three centres of gravity, to one or other of which it frequently wallowed. A bundle of bamboos lashed along each side of such boats often helps to steady them : and also prevents them sinking if flooded. It was a jolly trip. We took four days over it. If there is more water in the river, the journey can be done in three days. The scenery was varied. Cultivation, cliffs, and villages drifted by, and then miles and miles of dense, silent jungle, matted together as usual with ropes of creeper. Sometimes, a thin straight creeper shot up 40 feet to a bough, and one wondered how it ever got there. We saw a few