4A H. Ling Roth.aNatives of Sarawak and Brit. 2V. Borneo.
Diagram to show how a jacket is made from a piece of cloth (see text).
to about five inches wide each at the shoulder end, while at the wrist end, in order to make them narrow, a triangular piece (a) is cut off one side only, so that when sewn together the seam does not run straight. The piece of cloth, now about 36 inches long, is folded over in half (b c) and a hole (d) cut out for the neck, and from this hole the front part is cut straight down to e, forming the opening of the jacket. The cut edges are hemmed much the same as European hemming. The sides are then sewn together by cross stitches, in much the same way as we lace up boots with a single lace. Under the armpits, both in the sleeve and the jacket, a ventilation hole is made by simply leaving the parts unsewn. In order to fasten the jacket in front, a thorn, or wood, or bone pin is
skewered through the cloth on one side, and some thread let into the edging of the other side is slightly twisted round the peg much as a halyard is made
fast. Now buttons are frequently used, but they do not make button-holes, nor loops, but twist the thread round the button, holding the thread, when doing so, very like a sempstress when she is sewing on a button."
The dyeing by the Skarans is similar to that described by Mr. Horsburgh. " It takes several months to dye and weave a piece about 45 inches in circumference. These petticoats are woven in circular pieces, same as our pillow cases are manufactured ; they are then cut into two, so that two petticoats are made out of the one original piece. The ends are properly sewn together, in the European style, and not sewn together in the same way as the sleeves are attached to the jacket body. The backs of the jackets appear to bear a sort of tribal badge in the pattern, and, in the case of the Sekrang and Saribas, this pattern is worked into the cloth while it is being woven, the thread of the pattern being put through at the same time as the warp. In the case of the Balaus, the pattern is made on another piece of cloth, and a piece of the back of the jacket cut out and the badge piece fitted into its place. The dye on the back of the jackets is made very faint, or that part of the jacket is left undyed, in order to leave a light background for the dark badge." (ibid.)
Skewer acting as button. Sakaran Dyaks.Skewer acting as button. Sakaran Dyaks.