of Buddha, and these, too, the monk will show. In this wat there is no money chest, and no appeal for funds to upkeep the buildings. Unless in a wat such an appeal is found it is not necessary to give any money to the monks. They do not use money and often do not understand why it should be offered to them, and sometimes they refuse to take it. It is their duty to open such doors as it is the custom to open and to keep closed such doors as are opened only for the festivals, and their duty also, in some places, to get the fee before some doors can be opened. But to press money upon them is bad form, and if travellers insist on doing this they will eventually sap, in this respect, the present excellent morale of the priesthood. It should be remembered that the wats are first, foremost and always, temples of a religion and not merely showplaces, that reverence in the presence of a religion is expected of all, that in the presence of a Buddha, a man may well uncover, and that none should do anything to offend the simple piety of the Siamese.
Downstream from the railway station is Wat Pananchirng, say less than half-an-hour, and depending on the strength of the stream. In the forecourt is the wihan on the right of the entrance and the bot on the left. A fine bronze bell hangs at the entrance to the wat, and the doors are excellently carved in wood with Garuda and foliage motifs. The Buddha is colossal and gilded. The plated gold which once covered him was stripped from him by the Burmese. The teak roof is supported on squattish round tapering columns bearing at base and top the lotus petal decoration. The brick walls hold scores of little niches six inches high, and each should have, and very many do hold, a Buddha. All round the central figure sit more Buddhas. A very finely carved large fan stands in front of the great image. This is peculiarly a Chinese and a Canton -Chinese supported wat, and accordingly at the entrance are two white marble lions excellently carved, but one has lost its face and replaced it by plaster. In the wihan is a seated Buddha and a crowd of varied attitude Buddhas. The
Photo. Siamese Slate Railways.
King Phra Naraia s Palace, Lopburi.
walls bear curious frescoes, and it is worth asking that the door may be opened if only to see the primitive key used. The bot is not opened, and is used for induction of priests.
If all these things at Ayudhya are to be seen, six hours at least should be allowed, as one goes about by boat if no motor boat is available, and sometimes the stream is strong and progress to and from the two wats may be slow. If a choice between these must be made, the heir apparenta s castle should certainly be seena for the museum and the observatorya as they are the nearest, and unless one sees the ruins one does not realise the unhappy fate of Ayudhya. Wats may be seen in Bangkok if time will not permit of their being seen in Ayudhya.
A few stations to the north of Ayudhya lies Lopburi, where was a temple in the sixth century and a city in the ninth century, and in mo it was the pivot on which swayed the fate of the present Siam ese race. It may be called their cradle where they survived the fierce rockings which Pegu and Cambodia gave the infant kingdom of Siam in efforts to upset it.