OUR ISLANDS AND THEIR PEOPLE.
Jose. We had difficulty in obtaining men for this stage of the journey, but succeeded finally, by offering considerable inducements, in engaging ten men and a guide. We found that the difficulties in this case had been very little exaggerated. Many times our progress seemed effectually checked. The continuous rains of the past week had swollen every one of the numerous mountain streams until its passage had become a problem. This stage of not over thirty miles as the crow flies, occupied three days of ten working hours each. The trail was extremely intricate.
Our guide was a native of the district and had often made the journey (though never at that season of the year), yet he lost the way three times, and had great difficulty in finding it again.
a Here, for the first time, we heard fear expressed by members of our party of an attack by the Igorrotes or savages of the hills; a possibility which afterwards came to form an important part in all our calculations. We also became acquainted with the native terror of the alligators which infest the streams, and, in a lower degree, of the serpents occasionally met with in the forests.
a Upon reaching the town of Carranglan, on the other side of the mountains, in the province of Nueva Vizcaya, we took a day to dry our outfit and to recuperatc. Our diet for the past three days had been cold boiled rice and hardtack, and our rest at night had been on the wet ground, with practically no protection from the violent rain. In that climate hardships cannot be endured with impunity, and every man of the party, native as well as American, showed the effect of this experience. Fortunately, however, the traveling from this point on became easier, and we were able, even in our somewhat weakened condition, to travel at a more rapid pace than previously. Our arrival at Carranglan marked the end of one distinct stage of our journey, and our departure therefrom the beginning of a second.
a Up to this time the obstacles encountered had been natural onesa bad roads and swollen rivers. The province of Nueva Icija is an important one from a military standpoint. Its towns at that time were garrisoned by small squads of soldiers, commanded by
PACK TRAIN OF BUFFALO CARTS ON THE RIO GRANDE RIVER.
SCENE ALONG THE ROUTE DESCRIBED BY MR. SARGENT.
This photograph represents the home of a betel-nut gatherer and a portion of his family.
non-commissioned officers, and we met no one who felt it incumbent upon himself to make any determined opposition to our progress, although many expressed surprise at our lack of the customary passports. From Carranglan on through the province of Nueva Vizcaya we met with more varying fortunes, experiencing the coldest suspicion, as well as the most demonstrative hospitality, being greeted at one town by the ringing of church bells and the mv.sic of the band, and at the next, by the critical crossquestioning of the local authorities. At Bayombong, the capital of the province, we were stopped for several hours by the military officer stationed there. After ridiculing the whole idea of passports, and giving this officer some good advice on the manner of conducting a republican form of government, we succeeded in obtaining his permission to proceed.
a At an elevation of four or five hundred meters above the sea level, with firm roads and a cordial sun, traveling became the greatest of pleasures. No matter what the attitude of the military officers in the different towns might be, wre were invariably made welcome by the citizens. The larger towns at which we spent the
night gave balls in our honor, while the smaller ones, with the village band and native dancing, gave what entertainment they could improvisea often the most enjoyable. While the towns of this province are larger and more pretentious than those of Nueva Icija, they are situated farther apart and are more completely isolated one from another. The forests between are inhabited by tribes of Igorrotes, who are a constant menace to travelers. On one road over which we passed, a party of twenty Filipinos had been murdered to a man, only a few days before our arrival. The character of the country offers every opportunity for such savage attacks, the trail frequently leading through thick forests or plains of rank grass meeting overhead. Although we considered our